Red, white, or even mixed? Winemaker and expert Ulrich Allendorf from the winery Allendorf im Rheingau tells us what the trends are this summer and answers some common questions about wine.
or a long time, it was ridiculed. But, in recent years, rosé wine has established itself and has become
extremely popular. “The demand continues to grow,” says vintner Allendorf. Even rosé skeptics are becoming fans – because as the wine’s popularity increases, the varieties broaden as well. “Our Assmannshäuser Spätburgunder Rosé 2018 is very masculine and less fruity than usual – certainly something a non-rosé drinker might enjoy,” says Allendorf. For those who like white, light wines, white cuvées are an excellent choice this summer. A combination of different grapes makes the cuvées less acidic; the taste is fruitier and more aromatic.
Wine in mixed drinks is summery and trendy. Allendorf raves, “Gin with white wine instead of tonic water and a good soda is my absolute favorite. The wine accentuates the sweetness and fruity botanicals in the gin.” Unconventional ideas like these are what make wine fascinating for Ulrich Allendorf. “Wine is always about enjoyment and new taste experiences. With a good wine, enjoyed slowly, you not only create an experience for the palate but also memories.”
The Golden Grape of Venice
Rediscovery of a grape variety believed lost
he story sounds like a fairytale. Going as far back as the Middle Ages, the North Italian Dorona grape was a favorite among wine lovers and famed far beyond Venice’s borders. Then in 1966 came the big shock: A flood destroyed all of the vineyards and vines on the lagoon island of Torcello. The beloved Golden Grape was assumed extinct. It seemed to be. Until Gianluca Bisol, a winemaker from Valdobbiadene, discovered a couple of the grapevines believed lost on a trip to the Venetian Lagoon in 2002 – a sensational find! With his son Matteo, on the lagoon island of Mazzorbo founded the winery Venissa. Only here is the Dorona grown and, in 2010, there was the first harvest.
The result – a true pleasure. The salty lagoon soil lends the grapes their one-of-a-kind flavor. Wine connoisseurs from all over the world appreciate their mineral taste with a hint of white pepper. Limited to 3,500 bottles with gold leaf labels per year, this wine is in high demand. If you believe winemaker and host Matteo Bisol, his wine even has magical properties: “When you open a bottle of Venissa, the wine tells you about Venice, the lagoon and the winegrowers“, says the winery manager, who hosts wine-tastings on a regular bases. “A winery in the middle of a lagoon – that’s not easy. But the result is something unique and simply wonderful.” A Venetian winegrower fairytale that is reawakened anew with every sip.
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Will climate change also mean a change in our wine?
A part from location and region, climate is one of the most important factors for growing wine and for its quality. Dry, warm and sunny is best for red wine while white wine also does well with milder, rainier weather. Climatologists believe that temperatures will rise 1.5 °C in the Mediterranean region and 4 °C in Northern Europe over the next century. Over the past forty years, flowering, maturity and harvest times have become increasingly earlier. The rise in temperatures is especially a problem for Southern European regions. As drought and high temperatures directly affect grape quality, the quality and taste of the wine may strongly change. Northern regions, on the other hand, might significantly benefit as their cultivation conditions will improve. Traditionally a white wine country, Germany may well be producing more red wine, particularly in its southern regions, while European white wine production may shift to Southern England and Scandinavia. A future wine list may offer: Tempranillo from German Rheingau and Riesling from Småland in Sweden.
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